Špindlerův Mlýn is the best-known resort in the Krkonoše Mountains – big, lively, with the largest ski area in the Czech Republic. Harrachov is the town at the western edge: smaller, closer to Prague and Poland, quieter and cheaper. Which one suits you? Here is an honest comparison for ski holidays, hiking and family breaks.

Skiing: piste kilometres versus short distances
Špindlerův Mlýn has the largest ski area in the Krkonoše Mountains with Svatý Petr and Medvědín – if you want a week of varied pistes, that is the place. The price: queues at the lifts in high season, ski buses and parking fees.
Harrachov has a compact family resort on Čertova hora with a chairlift, nursery slopes and a longer run. For families, beginners and weekend guests that is plenty – and the slope starts right at Hotel Šedý Vlk, with no ski bus. Cross-country skiers even have the advantage, with Jakuszyce across the border. More under Harrachov ski resort guide.
Getting there
Harrachov lies in the western Krkonoše Mountains on the Polish border: about two hours from Prague, under an hour from Jelenia Góra, around two and a half hours from Wrocław and three from Dresden. Špindlerův Mlýn is roughly an hour further, in the central Krkonoše, and its single access road is notorious in high season. For a weekend that makes a real difference – see getting to Harrachov.

Crowds, prices, atmosphere
Špindlerův Mlýn is the tourist hub of the range – with hotels, après-ski and prices to match. Harrachov is a working mountain town with a glassworks, ski jumps and a centre you cross on foot. It is quieter, noticeably cheaper off season, and you do not have to move the car after arriving.
Hiking and summer
Both towns lie on the main ridge. From Harrachov you start for the Mumlava Waterfalls, the Mumlava valley, Vosecká bouda and the source of the Elbe; from Špindlerův Mlýn for the routes towards Sněžka and also the Elbe source. For easy family walks Harrachov is more practical; for ridge hikes the two are equal. All routes under hiking trails from Harrachov.
Families
Nursery slope at the hotel, ski school, pool in the building, Mumlava Waterfalls and summer toboggan run within walking distance: Harrachov is built for families without you having to organise logistics. More under family holidays in the Krkonoše Mountains.

Our verdict
Want maximum piste kilometres and après-ski? Špindlerův Mlýn. Want a short journey, short distances, peace and quiet, family, cross-country and wellness – with Špindlerův Mlýn in reach for a day trip? Harrachov. At Hotel Šedý Vlk you stay right on the slope with half-board, a pool and a private sauna: see the rooms or book directly online.